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Installation Notes

Stainless Steel Box Bowsprit
Installation With Riser Box
and Welded on Sampson Posts

If you ordered the bowsprit with a pipe on the end, first slip on your eyeband, with some caulking around the end to hold it in place.

When installing the box bowsprit with stainless sampson posts and a built-in riser, attach the jib halyard to the eyeband and push the bowsprit out so you can temporarily put the staysail eyebolt through the hole and into the stemfitting on the bow of the boat.

Adjust the tension on the jib halyard so the riser box sits flat on the deck. Then tie a string line from the end of the bowsprit to the mast. This string should go down the center of the bowsprit. You might want to attach the whisker stays to line up the bowsprit. Align the holes for the three holdown bolts, and check to see if you can easily slip the bolts down through the bowsprit. If not, it may be necessary to put a ½” drill bit down the three holes in the bowsprit and deck to make sure they line up.

Use a ring of caulking around the holes through the deck, and another ring of caulking under the washer on top of the bowsprit. Install these three ½” x 9” bolts with a small washer on top, and a fender washer, lockwasher, and hex nut under the deck. Tighten down well.

Attach the headstay, bobstay, and bow whisker stays, and tighten all four turnbuckles.

Install the anchor rollers, and then install the platform. Cut the threaded rod to the necessary lengths so the ends of the rods do not extend beyond the sides of the platform. Use a flat washer and hex nut on each end of each threaded rod.

You can then install a windlass to the plates welded to the bowsprit with 3/8” bolts, with a flat washer under the head of the bolt, and a flat washer, lockwasher, and hex nut on the end of the bolt..

Updated: Jan, 2013

W32 Starboard Fuel Tank
Replacement Procedure

  1. Remove starboard cockpit drain hose, and starboard cockpit floor drain fitting. Cut fuel outlet and vent hose near tank. Remove holdown allthread and angle plates. Unscrew clamp on fill pipe and remove screws from fill cap on deck and pry up. Remove cleats from tank shelf and prop up tank.
  2. Pull tank off shelf and rotate end for end (big end aft and upside down), raising either end up and rotating so as to be able to remove it from shelf and take it out.
  3. If tank will not come out this way, and you have the fiberglass shelves, it will be necessary to cut a corner off of the tank shelf to remove the tank, then stick the corner back on after the new tank is installed. Cut corner about 15" back from front end and as far outboard and down as possible. Use a saber saw, grinder, or a carborundum hacksaw blade held with vise grips. Remove tank and clean up area.
  4. Stick corner back on with epoxy putty if you have cut it off. If you do not already have some strips on the shelf to hold the tank up so it does not sit in a puddle of water, use some ¼” to 3/8” teak or fiber strips to do so.
  5. Install vent barb on new tank. Install pickup tube with valve and barb. Install return elbow and barb. Fit new tank back in place and prop up.
  6. Align tank fill with hole in deck. Use 1-1/2" ID x 6" hose and push fill fitting down with caulking around the flange and screw back on deck. Make sure there is an O ring to seal the fill cap. Hook up hoses and clamps. Replace cleats and holdown brackets and allthread.
  7. Replace cockpit floor drain thruhull and hose, and bilge pump if you needed to remove it.

Tools and Materials Needed

Updated: Aug, 2008

W42 and W43 Tank Replacement

The tanks are a problem because of their inaccessibility under the cabin sole. After all of these years, it is not unusual to have a steel tank rust through, or an aluminum one corrode to the point it develops a leak. Replacing the tanks is no easy matter on the boats, and the most practical approach is to isolate a leaking tank and not use it, until such time as you are preparing for a long trip, or when enough tanks are not usable so as to restrict your use of the boat.

The best approach is to remove the floor over the center tanks to reach as much as possible without cutting into the furniture, and to cut out the center tanks and remove them out the opening. Next cut the subfloor bulkheads to reach the wing tanks, and remove them by pulling them to center. Make up new tanks that will fit down the hatch, using cardboard to mockup the tanks. After the wing tanks are replaced, install the subfloor bulkheads, and then put in the center tanks.

Another possibility is to open up the existing center tanks, and use bladders inside them to hold the fuel or water. You will need to put some sort of cushioning material around the insides of the tanks to protect the bladder.

Trying to repair the tanks with fiberglass or sealing material is probably futile, especially on the fuel tanks. The pores of the metal will be so saturated with oil from the fuel, that you could not get a decent bond of the fiberglass to the base metal.

I do have drawings of three centerline tanks we made for a Westsail 43 to replace the one leaking centerline tank. The new tanks had to be small enough to go through the companionway hatch, and down through the opening in the floor.

Updated: Sep, 2006

Engine Replacement Procedure

  1. Remove cockpit floor or cockpit tub on the early W32's.
  2. Unhook shaft coupling, electrical wiring, water plumbing hoses, and fuel plumbing hoses from engine.
  3. Lift the engine off of the mounts using a comealong or chain hoist attached to the boom near the front edge of the cockpit. Use the main halyard attached to the boom at the same location as the lifting strap to prevent bending the boom. It is necessary to raise the boom up before lifting the engine as the halyard stretches.
  4. Place the engine on the deck alongside the cockpit, and secure it with ropes around a stanchion or winch. Use cardboard to protect the deck, and maybe a few short lengths of 2 x 4 wood under the transmission as necessary.
  5. Remove the 5/8” water hose from the seawater inlet filter, and replace the barb with one for a ¾” ID hose.
  6. Remove all old engine wiring and engine instrument panel.
  7. Remove the old water lift muffler if it was not attached directly to the engine.
  8. Remove the shaft coupling from the shaft. Check the location of the shaft end with the appropriate drawing to see if the existing shaft can be reused.
  9. If the fuel tanks are old, remove them from the boat and check carefully for any corrosion, pits, or weak places, especially around the bottom and on the welded edges.
  10. If the tanks appear to be OK, then they should be cleaned out. It may be necessary to cut access holes in the tops, and make cover plates to close up the holes. If the tanks are ready to discard, order new tanks.
  11. If the tanks do not have a fuel return fitting on them, then install one on each tank. Change all hose barbs to use 5/16” ID hose.
  12. Clean out the engine compartment, and punch out or cut any mounting bolts on the engine pan.
  13. Check engine control mechanism for good operation. Replace with new single lever control if necessary. Otherwise, move the shift cable to the opposite side of the control bellcrank. The shifter cable has to pull to go into forward. On most older engines the shifter cable has to push to go into forward.
  14. Do any cleaning and painting as necessary.
  15. Reinstall the fuel tanks.
  16. Install the aluminum modification plates on the engine beds. See apprpriate drawing based on the type of engine pan you have.
  17. If the boat is not already hauled out, then have it towed to the boatyard, and hauled out.
  18. Remove the prop, and pull out the old shaft.
  19. For most installations, remove the bronze shaft log from the hull. It will be necessary to remove the stuffing box and hose from the log before pulling it out of the hull. Clean up the hole in the hull, and the face of the hull where the log was mounted.
  20. Clean up the log and stuffing box. Install a new cutlass bearing in the log, and new teflon impregnated packing in the stuffing box. Replace the hose and hose clamps if necessary.
  21. Take the old engine off of the deck and onto the ground, using the yard crane or the comealong or chain hoist on the boom.
  22. Lift the new engine out of the crate, and install the four new engine mounts temporarily onto the engine mounting brackets. Snug up the nuts just enough so you can still rotate the mounts.
  23. Drop the engine onto the aluminum modification plates.
  24. The rest of the installation procedure is on the CD I supply with the new Beta engines, and also in the pages from my Westsail Service Manual.

Updated: Jan, 2013

W32 Stainless Steel
Boomkin Installation

To replace the wooden boomkin, I have designed a simple stainless pipe boomkin, consisting of 1-1/4" ID pipes, which are 1-5/8" OD, and a stainless crosspiece similar to the one on the wooden boomkin, with a 4" vertical web. There are hull pads on the ends which bolt just below the rubrail, with backup washers inside the lazarette. Tabs are welded on the inboard side of the pipe to mount teak boards to be able to step out onto the boomkin. The boomkin sits lower than the wooden one, and the existing backstay needs lengthening. A toggle is provided to allow for the added length so as to have enough take-up in the turnbuckle. The existing whisker stays are used. All mounting bolts and backup washers are provided. All stainless parts are either hand buffed and polished, or are electropolished in a chemical solution.

The wooden boomkin should be removed prior to starting the installation. Seal the holes in the deck with epoxy resin, and fill with epoxy putty. Slip the end pieces onto the boomkin pipes, with the pads attached with the 5/8" bolts and nuts on loosely. Temporarily secure with string to prevent dropping the pieces. Tie up the front ends on each side, and block up, or tie up, the aft end. The hull pads have ears welded on close to one side. This side should have the ear at the top edge of the plate up tight against the underside of the rubrail, and the boomkin should follow the sheerline aft. It is actually about an eight degree rise for the boomkin. Level the boomkin from side to side. If necessary, trim some off of the underside of the rubrail for a better fit of the hull pads. Drill one hole on each side. The pads should fit with the aft holes approximately 25" from the stern, and the top holes about 1" below the rubrail.

Recheck the alignment, then drill the other three holes on each side. Take off the boomkin and bolt on the pads with backup washers, lockwashers, and nuts on the inside of the lazarette, and with a ring of caulking around each hole in the hull. Install the boomkin and tighten up the 5/8" locknuts. When you attach the boomkin to the hull, the end fittings slips into the boomkin tube, then the 5/8" bolt attaches it to the hullpad. Once installed, there is no way they can come apart, short of unbolting the end fitting from the hull pad. However, I do supply two 1/4" bolts with locknuts if you want to drill through the fitting and attach the bolts. The holes are already in the boomkin tubes, but not in the fitting that slips into it. Don't drill the holes until the boomkin is completely attached to the hull.

Connect the backstay with a toggle below the turnbuckle, and also connect the boomkin stays. Check the alignment of the boomkin tangs on the hull with the stays. If the alignment is off, then remove one of the bolts holding the stays to the hull, align the tang with the stay, and redrill the hole. Seal the old hole with epoxy putty, and recaulk the boomkin tangs before tightening the bolts. Adjust and tighten the stays.

Trim the ends of the teak platform boards as needed to clear the hull, oil the cut ends, and install the boards.

If you are installing an Aires or Monitor windvane, position the two mounting fittings to the crosspiece and attach a 1/2" bolt through the slotted hole. Slip the windvane onto the mounting fittings, and snug up. Adjust the vane to fit, then mark the crosspiece to drill the other two 1/2" holes. Remove the vane, drill the holes, then re-bolt the mounting fittings and the vane. Lastly, drill for the locking bolts to hold the vane body to the mounting tubes. On the installation for the Monitor windvane there are two supporting struts from the lower ends of the vane that can go back up to the ears welded on the bottom of the boomkin pipes for additional rigidity.

Updated: Aug, 2008

Stainless Steel
Box Bowsprit Installation

When installing the box bowsprit, set it in place on top of the riser board and temporarily put a bolt through the sampson posts and loosely install the staysail eyebolt. If they line up, then tie a string line from the end of the bowsprit to the mast. This string should go down the center of the bowsprit. You might want to attach the whisker stays to line up the bowsprit. Align the riser board, you will probably have to put a ½” drill bit down the three holes in the bowsprit, riser board and deck to make sure they line up. Install these three bolts first, and then the sampson post bolt, and the staysail eyebolt. Attach the headstay and bobstay, and tighten all four turnbuckles. Install the anchor rollers, and then install the platform and bow pulpit. Cut the threaded rod to the necessary lengths so the ends of the rods do not extend beyond the sides of the platform. You can then install a windlass to the plates welded to the bowsprit.

Stainless Steel
Pipe Bowsprit Installation

The wooden bowsprit and sampson posts can be removed completely, and a teak board installed over the holes with a windlass installed. Alternatively, the wooden bowsprit can be cut off just ahead of the sampson posts, or in front of the anchor windlass if one is mounted on top of the bowsprit.

The stemplate should be removed from the bow, and the new one fitted. Install the new forestay chainplate on the stem. The holes should line up with the stemplate that was removed. If they do not, then you have one of the Westsails built using a different stemplate than most of the boats. Either redrill the holes in the hull, or send the stemplate back marked with masking tape and ink lines for your hole location, and I will have a special one made up. Caulk and install in place.

The platform boards should be removed if they have already been fitted, and the bowsprit fitted up into place with the end sockets and hull plates on loosely. It can be tied and adjusted with three halyards; one on the forward end and one on each side of the pulpit at the lifeline attachment loops. Pull the aft end up so the hull plates, with the ears up, are hard up against the rubrail, and the bowsprit has the proper rake. You must visually check the rake to see it is correct. Make sure the bowsprit is level athwart¬ships, or trim the underside of the rubrails if necessary, then drill the four 3/8" holes on each side. Caulk the hull plates, and bolt in place with 3/8" x 1-1/2" carriage bolts with backup washers on the inside.

Attach the headstay, using the chainplate extender on the turnbuckle, and the bobstay. Attach the forestay, using the chainplate extender. Re-adjust the bowsprit rake as necessary. Use the 13/16” teak blocks to build up, and trim as necessary, to go between the welded plates and the bow on each side. Drill, caulk and thrubolt with long 3/8" carriage bolts, with backup washers inside.

Drill thru the aft ends of the bowsprit tubes with a 1/4" drill for the locking bolts, and install a 1/4" bolt with locknut on each side.

Set the platform boards in place, and trim the aft ends to clear the hull. Before bolting down, check to see that your anchor clears in the slot ahead of the roller, and if it does not, cut the opening larger. Oil the cut edges, and bolt in place using the oval head bolts and locknuts. Install self-tapping screws on any tapered boards on each side if necessary to secure any pointed ends. Sand any sharp edges of the teak platform, then re-oil.

Updated: Sep, 2012


If you have a problem with the aluminum water tank under the dinette floor, you are not alone since most of the rest of the W28 owners have the same problem.

You should not consider putting in a bladder, because you have to first open up the top of the tank, clean it out, remove the baffles, and padding the inside so that the bladder will not be cut. Not worth the time and effort.

My best suggestion would be to cut out the floor under the dinette table, but leave at least 1” of fiberglass around the cut. Now you can access the tank. Cut it out in pieces, and clean up the area. Now find one or more polyethylene tanks that will go in the area. Install those and then bolt on a 2” wide strip of 1/4” aluminum around the underside of the perimeter of the cutout, with the aluminum sticking out at least 1”. Now you have something to attach the floor back down with self-taping screws, or threads cut in the aluminum strip. Caulk the seam to seal up the joint.

A big selection of the polyethylene tanks can be found made by Ronco Plastics in my area. I buy from them, and can get a better price for you than their catalog price. You can access the catalog at Since they put the fittings in after the tank is molded, the tanks can be oriented to maximize the capacity in the area you are working in.

I have a drawing of the original aluminum tank if you want to check out the size.

Updated: Sep, 2013

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